![]() The right kinds of waves offer a lot of fun, but always stay mindful of your own limits - not just physically but in experience. They are especially powerful in larger surf, but never underestimate the power of any water.įind out how to identify rip currents and what to do if you ever find yourself caught in one. Rips are strong currents running out to sea between waves, which can quickly drag people and debris away out to deeper water. Remember that the wave in the middle of a set is often bigger and can reach further up the beach or along the promenade.Įnjoy the power of the water from a safe and respectful distance - preferably from a window seat in a cafe with a warm cup of tea! 2. Bear this in mind when the weather is stormy or conditions are rough.Īnd don’t be caught out by the ‘seventh wave’. It may seem fun to wait for a wave to sweep up the beach or along a harbour wall, but only 15cm of water can knock you off your feet. Wave dodging is for sunny, calm days and gentle waves! ![]() Watch out for surging waves - they don’t break, so they can knock you off of your feet more easily and drag you into deeper water. When a wave breaks it loses some of its power and momentum. They most commonly occur at low tide and break quickly with a lot of force making them dangerous for beginners. Dumping wavesĭumping waves break powerfully in shallow water and should be avoided. Start off in the shallow white water before you progress to deeper water and unbroken waves. They are ideal for beginner board riders. Spilling waves are softer and more consistent waves that break gradually as they approach the shore. That it always happens on the seventh wave is a myth, but sometimes it does! Spilling waves Waves move in sets and the ‘seventh wave’ – the bigger wave in the middle of a set – often comes further up the beach. ![]() south-west winds have a longer fetch and cause larger and more powerful waves.south-east winds have a shorter fetch and cause smaller waves. ![]() On the south coast of England, south-east winds (ones originating from the south-east and heading north-west), have less open sea across the English Channel than south-west winds blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean. How steeply a beach slopes or shelves and the topography of the sea bed near the beach will also affect the size and type of wave.
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